How To Sew Bias Binding

Mastering the Art of Sewing Bias Binding: A Comprehensive Guide

Sewing bias binding might seem daunting at first glance, but with a little practice and the right guidance, it becomes a simple yet elegant way to finish seams, create clean edges, and add a professional touch to your sewing projects. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from understanding bias grain to creating perfectly pressed bindings, ensuring you achieve professional-looking results. Whether you're a beginner just starting your sewing journey or a seasoned crafter looking to refine your techniques, this guide is designed to enhance your skills and confidence in sewing bias binding.

Understanding Bias Grain: The Foundation of Perfect Binding

Before we delve into the sewing process, it's crucial to understand the concept of bias grain. Unlike the straight grain (running parallel to the selvage) and the cross grain (running perpendicular to the selvage), the bias grain is cut at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. This diagonal cut allows the fabric to stretch and curve more easily, making it perfect for creating neat and flexible bindings around curved edges. Understanding bias grain is fundamental to achieving a smooth, professional-looking finish. Choosing the right fabric for your binding is also important – lightweight fabrics such as cotton, silk, or linen work beautifully, while heavier fabrics might require more experience to handle.

Choosing Your Bias Binding: Pre-made vs. Homemade

You have two main options when it comes to bias binding: using pre-made bias binding or making your own.

• Pre-made bias binding: This is readily available in various widths and colors at most fabric stores. It's a convenient option, especially for beginners, saving you time and effort. However, the color and fabric choices may be limited.

• Homemade bias binding: Making your own bias binding offers greater control over fabric choice, color, and width. It also allows you to perfectly match your binding to your project. While it requires extra steps, creating your own binding allows for a more personalized and professional finish.

Making Your Own Bias Binding: A Step-by-Step Guide

Let's explore the process of creating your own bias binding, a rewarding process that ultimately yields superior results.

1. Cutting Your Bias Strips:

• Calculate the length: Measure the perimeter of the area you need to bind, adding extra length for seam allowances and overlap. Remember, bias fabric stretches, so add even more length to account for this. A good rule of thumb is to add at least 50% extra.

• Cut your strips: Cut your fabric into strips on the bias (at a 45-degree angle). The width of your strips will depend on the finished width of your binding and the seam allowance you'll use. For a ½-inch finished binding, start with 2-inch wide strips.

2. Joining the Bias Strips:

• Butt the edges: Place two strips right sides together, ensuring the edges are perfectly aligned.

• Stitch a diagonal seam: Sew a diagonal seam from one corner to the other, using a ¼-inch seam allowance.

• Press open: Press the seam open to prevent bulk. Repeat this process until you have a long continuous strip of bias binding.

3. Pressing the Bias Binding:

This is a crucial step for achieving a clean, professional finish.

• Fold in half lengthwise: Fold your bias strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together, and press firmly.

• Press the edges: Now, press each long edge towards the center crease, creating a neatly folded binding.

Sewing the Bias Binding: Techniques for Various Applications

Now that you've created your bias binding, let's explore different techniques for applying it to your sewing projects.

1. Binding a Straight Edge:

• Pin the binding: Pin the folded binding to the raw edge of your fabric, with the raw edge of the binding aligned with the raw edge of your fabric.

• Stitch close to the edge: Stitch close to the folded edge of the binding, using a ¼-inch seam allowance or slightly less.

• Fold over and stitch: Fold the binding over to the back of the fabric, covering the raw edge. Stitch along the folded edge, close to the previous stitching line. This creates a clean, finished edge.

2. Binding a Curved Edge:

Curved edges require a little more care and patience.

• Pin carefully: Pin the binding to the curved edge, stretching the binding gently to accommodate the curve. Take your time and ensure the binding lies smoothly. If the curve is very tight, consider clipping the seam allowance to allow for a better fit.

• Stitch slowly: Stitch slowly and carefully, keeping the binding taut to avoid puckering.

• Fold and stitch: Fold the binding over and stitch as you would with a straight edge, taking care to maintain a smooth, even curve.

3. Mitering Corners:

Mitering corners adds a professional, crisp finish to your binding.

• Measure and mark: Measure and mark the point where you want to miter the corner.

• Fold and stitch: Fold the binding to the back of the fabric, stitching up to the corner. Then, fold the binding around the corner, creating a 45-degree angle. Pin and stitch along the new section of the binding.

• Press: Press your mitered corner to secure it neatly.

4. Binding Necklines and Armholes:

• Pre-treat the edges: It's advisable to finish your neckline and armhole edges by using a zig-zag stitch or pinking shears to prevent fraying before applying the bias binding.

• Attach the binding: Carefully pin the bias binding to the neckline or armhole edge, making sure it lies flat and smooth. Stretching the binding might be required, especially on curved areas.

• Stitch and press: Stitch the bias binding carefully and press the seams flat. Then, fold the binding to the inside of the garment and stitch in place. This technique ensures a neat and professional finish on curved edges.

Troubleshooting Common Bias Binding Issues

Even experienced sewers encounter challenges sometimes. Here are some common issues and solutions:

• Puckering: This often happens when the binding isn't stretched enough to conform to the curve or when using a fabric that’s too heavy for the binding. Use a lighter fabric for your binding, take your time stitching, and gently stretch the binding as you sew.

• Uneven stitching: This is usually due to inconsistencies in speed or tension while stitching. Sew at a consistent speed and ensure your machine’s tension is properly adjusted.

• Bulky seams: This can result from using too much seam allowance or from not pressing open seams while creating the bias binding. Use a smaller seam allowance, and always press open all seams.

• Gaps in the binding: This can occur if the bias strips aren’t joined precisely or if the binding isn’t stretched evenly while stitching. Carefully match your bias strip ends and ensure there is no extra fabric in the stitching.

Advanced Techniques: Adding Flair to Your Binding

Once you've mastered the basics, you can explore more advanced techniques:

• Decorative stitching: Enhance your binding with decorative stitches to add a personal touch.

• Two-toned binding: Create visually striking effects by using two different fabrics for the binding.

• Bias binding with cord: Incorporating a cord into your binding creates texture and definition.

Conclusion: Elevate Your Sewing with Bias Binding

Mastering the art of sewing bias binding is a journey that enhances not just your sewing skills but also your confidence. The meticulous process of creating and applying bias binding transforms a simple project into a beautifully finished piece. While it may seem challenging initially, the reward of a neat, professional finish is worth the effort. With practice and patience, you'll confidently tackle various projects, from simple straight edges to intricate curves, creating garments and accessories with a polished, handmade touch. So, pick up your fabric, and embark on this rewarding sewing journey! Remember, practice makes perfect, and every seam sewn brings you closer to mastering this essential sewing skill.